Which one of the following statements is/are incorrect regarding waves (A) wave height is not indicator of wave energy (B) wave height is controlled by wind strength (C) the distance of open water a wave travels over affects the wave height (D) the depth of the sea is important factors affecting wave height Choose the most appropriate answer from the options given below:?

LohaHridoy
  1. (A) only 
  2. (A) and (B) only 
  3. (C) only 
  4. (C) and (D) only

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AhmedNazir

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Option 1 : (A) only 

Correct Answer: (A) only.

Sea Waves  A moving ridge or swell of water occurring close to the surface of the sea is characterized by oscillating and rising and falling movements, often as a result of the frictional drag of the wind. Ocean waves (swell) are formed by transferring energy from the motion of atmospheric wind to the ocean surface and releasing a certain amount of energy to the shoreline, causing erosion and accretion of coastal landforms on a long-term scale.

  •  The mechanism of the origin of sea waves is commonly believed that waves are generated due to friction on the water surface caused by blowing winds.
  • The Height of winds generated by sea waves depends on
    • (I) Wind Speed,
    • (II) The duration of wind from one direction, and
    • (III) The extent of fetch.
  • Wave height is an indicator of wave energy. 
  • The amount of energy in a wave depends on its height and wavelength as well as the distance over which it breaks.
  • Wave height is affected by wind speed, wind duration (or how long the wind blows), and fetch, which is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction.
  • If wind speed is slow, only small waves result, regardless of wind duration or fetch.
  • Because deep-water waves do not interact with the ocean bottom as they travel, their speed is independent of the water depth.
  • But as waves enter shallow water, interaction with the bottom alters the waves.
  • Wave speed decreases, the wavelength shortens, and wave height increases.
  • In open seawater, there is no friction which is why wind travels easily and waves height is affected.

  • Wave Period: The time it takes for two successive crests (one wavelength) to pass a specified point.
  • Wave Frequency - The number of waves that pass a particular point in a given time period.
  • There is an inverse relationship between the wavelength and wave frequency.
  • Wave velocity is directly related to wavelength.
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